Moon Aoud by Montale

*****
Year: 2011

Notes: saffron, rose, oud, leather, patchouli, amber, vetiver, sandalwood
Honouring the mystical power of the moon, Moon Aoud fails to convince one of its olfactory concept but is still one of the most stimulating Montale ouds to have been released in recent years.

Commencing with a fleeting and yet realistic raw leather opening, in some ways similar to the leather accord in Oud Cuir d'Arabie, the composition reveals an initial aroma that's both rubbery and creamy. However, it's soon tamed by the sweet emergence of saffron and rose, with this stage bearing a striking resemblance to the lavish saffron-infused creaminess of White Aoud.

The leather later returns (re-joining the restrained oud) to ensure that the proceedings retain a certain degree of earthbound decorum, but the buttery foundation of saffron and rose has now been established. The vetiver soon emerges, to further accentuate this earthy aspect, only to be contested by the less obliging patchouli. A tug of war between these woods ensues, before they are both overwhelmed by a deliciously sweet and powdery base of sandalwood and amber.

With a balsamic leatheriness resounding throughout the drydown, the final stages are very similar to the aroma of bakhoor (fragrant blocks or wood chips, burned in incense burners, to scent rooms and clothes). As a result, Moon Aoud smells like a composite of White Aoud, Oud Cuir d'Arabie and Taj but is softer by comparison. And that's its main downfall, as its low sillage verges unfavourably close to that of a skin scent.

Providing above average longevity, it still comes highly recommended for those who have been left disappointed by the recent deluge of prosaic oud releases from this house.


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