Muschio Oro by Santa Maria Novella

*****
Year: unknown

Notes: aldehydes, spices, rose, amber, patchouli, vegetable musk
Muschio Oro is a beguiling and complex beast indeed, undergoing various olfactory transformations throughout its extensive lifespan.

One first notices a powdery and soapy musk, which initially comes across as rather humdrum. But, gradually, the soapy aspect intensifies – so much that a strong aldehyde note suddenly surfaces. The smell is astringent but also very old-fashioned in a nostalgic manner. A subdued rose peeks through every now and then but never dominates, while the overall composition aspires to the aldehydic charms of Chanel No.22.

However, at some point, the aldehydes are eventually overwhelmed by an emerging amber accord – it's also at this stage when its soapy disposition is renounced, in favour of a more oriental approach. With both the amber and musk now working in unison, an astringent aroma soon returns to plague the composition once more. But, this time, it's a spicy and earthy patchouli consolidating the base.

For an Eau de Cologne, its longevity is absolutely fantastic with more than adequate sillage. Personally, one is still unsure if Muschio Oro is full bottle-worthy, but one would advise anyone not to pass any judgement until it has been allowed to develop on their skin over several hours.


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