Onice by Omnia Profumo

*****
Year: 2008

Notes: citrus, pineapple, peach, mint, nutmeg, aniseed, liquorice, lavender, geranium, rose, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, jasmine, amber, cedar, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Onice is part of the Pietre Collection

After experiencing three complete duds by Omnia Profumo, one wasn't really expecting much from Onice. But, upon testing it, one has been left very pleasantly surprised.

The first thing one encounters is a distinctive celery aroma. Although celery isn't listed as a note, the accord is unequivocal. Soon, some aniseed and liquorice emerge to further confound. However, it's only when lavender is detected that one soon realises the composition is tipping its hat off to the classic aromatic fougères from the '70s and '80s. Now, that's not to say it smells old-school or dated but such retro influences are clearly worn on its sleeve.

The emergence of sweet fruits, along with some nutmeg, yields an extra dimension. There's also a re-occurring mintiness running throughout the majority of the composition's development, with the geranium providing further depth to the aromatic proceedings. Eventually, all that remains is a radiant and demure fruity-floral, with a mild powdery base of sandalwood, cedar, amber and musk. Also, the transition throughout each stage is both multi-faceted and smoothly interwoven.

Onice bears some similarities with L'etre Aime Homme by Divine, especially via a mutual celery accord. But, in saying that, Onice is fruitier and more eccentric. The overall effect is somewhat ethereal, with noticeable sillage during the first hour. Unfortunately, its longevity isn't as substantial as originally hoped (roughly four hours) but it still manages to single-handedly redeem Omnia Profumo's somewhat tattered reputation.


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