Tabac Tabou by Parfum d'Empire

Year: 2015

Notes: grass, daffodil, white flowers, honey, tobacco leaf, immortelle, leather, animalic notes, musk

Comment: 2015 vintage review
Boasting "a high quantity of extremely rare and precious materials", and produced in very limited quantities with the label indicating the vintage (like a bottle of wine), Tabac Tabou aspires to be a tobacco-based parfum extrait but is anything but.

Opening with an ominous pairing of grass and white florals, the top notes smell plastic-like and artificial. With a touch of honey, a clinical aura continues to persist. Personally, one is hard-pressed to discern much tobacco – instead detecting more of a leathery presence with animalic nuances (albeit probably synthetic).

With minimal projection and longevity of at least six hours, anyone searching for a prominent tobacco fragrance would be advised to investigate elsewhere – beginning with Molinard's Habanita, Serge Lutens' Fumerie Turque and Chergui, Caron's Tabac Blond, and Santa Maria Novella's Acqua di Cuba and Tabacco Toscano.

However, even within the context of a leather creation, Tabac Tabou is still very much a failure in comparison to Guerlain's Derby, Knize's Knize Ten, Serge Lutens' Cuir Mauresque, Montale's Oud Cuir d'Arabie and even this house's own Cuir Ottoman.

Whichever way one looks at it, Tabac Blond is bland and utterly trite, with hardly any redeeming qualities.