She Came to Stay by Timothy Han / Edition

*****
Year: 2014

Notes: lemon, basil, nutmeg, Indonesian clove, geranium, patchouli, labdanum, cedar, vetiver, oakmoss
"This 100% natural fragrance is set in a base of certified organic grape alcohol and inspired by the novel of the same name written by Simone de Beauvoir in 1943."

Timothy Han / Edition is an East London based artisanal fragrance house, "crafting olfactory journeys for those who follow their passions". Owned by Canadian perfumer Timothy Han, he was also a former assistant to John Galliano and places great importance on using natural ingredients. Due to the fact that raw fragrance materials vary, from year to year, each fragrance is produced in limited volumes (known as 'editions'), with a number used to identify each individual batch.

She Came to Stay is this house's debut release and, while it's a pleasant chypré with an abundance of woods and spices, it's essentially a revamped version of Frédéric Malle's Noir Épices (with some oakmoss included). Both open with a candied citrus, alongside an array of spices, with the main distinction being that She Came to Stay opts for a herbaceous flourish in place of Noir Épices' peppery assault.

With nutmeg and clove being a commonality between the two, they also both possess a geranium heart (albeit Noir Épices accentuates this accord with the addition of some rose). And although both woody bases consist of patchouli and cedar, it's at this point where they diverge – with Noir Épices employing sandalwood, and She Came to Stay incorporating vetiver and oakmoss.

Sweetened with a touch of labdanum, She Came to Stay gradually evolves into something woodier and darker, yet the lingering spicy-citrus aspect keeps any olfactory associations with Noir Épices firmly in mind. Yes, She Came to Stay isn't as intensely peppery, raw or metallic as Noir Épices, but their similarities are impossible to overlook from beginning to end.

On the whole, She Came to Stay isn't entirely original but it's still a respectable creation, with moderate sillage and good longevity. For those who found Noir Épices too aggressively spicy, She Came to Stay would make an excellent alternative.


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