Year: 2000
Notes: orange, pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, geranium, rose, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood
When the name of a fragrance includes the word 'noir(e)', there's usually the assumption that it will be dark and brooding. But, with regards to Noir Épices, such an epithet doesn't hold true.
Created by Michel Roudnitska, Noir Épices is a spicy woody-oriental, consisting of candied orange, aldehydes, woods and spices. However, there's nothing particularly dark about it. Yes, its oriental manner is notably stark but, for the most part, it possesses a warm soapy radiance. With a skeletal structure, it also forsakes clichéd base notes, such as vanilla, resins and musks, in favour of soft woods and a deluge of crisp exotic spices.
Starting with an orange-infused aldehydic opening, the spices are initially intense, raw and somewhat metallic, before settling down and pulsating a soft piquant warmth. Both the geranium and rose generate a verdant, yet tender, floral nucleus. With the spicy-citrus premise still persisting into the drydown, the buttery emanation of sandalwood and patchouli serve to confirm the composition's status as an oriental.
Producing moderate sillage, and excellent longevity of over ten hours, Noir Épices largely comes across as the male version of Caron's Parfum Sacré (which is amusing, as Noir Épices was originally conceived for women). With the florals toned down, the spicy-citrus aspect increased and the resinous base extracted to highlight the creamy woods, the olfactory parallels between these two creations are rather evident. Naturally, one wonders if Parfum Sacré was the original source of inspiration.
Overall, Noir Épices is a bold creation. It's rich, well-constructed and exudes plenty of depth. Unfortunately, its contradictory rating is reflective of the fact that, regardless of how carefully it's stored, the juice has a tendency of losing its potency and smelling flat over a short period of time. With volatile components, such as citrus and aldehydes, this is to be expected but usually after several years of careful storage.
So, with that said, it's one creation that's greatly admired but only from afar.
Created by Michel Roudnitska, Noir Épices is a spicy woody-oriental, consisting of candied orange, aldehydes, woods and spices. However, there's nothing particularly dark about it. Yes, its oriental manner is notably stark but, for the most part, it possesses a warm soapy radiance. With a skeletal structure, it also forsakes clichéd base notes, such as vanilla, resins and musks, in favour of soft woods and a deluge of crisp exotic spices.
Starting with an orange-infused aldehydic opening, the spices are initially intense, raw and somewhat metallic, before settling down and pulsating a soft piquant warmth. Both the geranium and rose generate a verdant, yet tender, floral nucleus. With the spicy-citrus premise still persisting into the drydown, the buttery emanation of sandalwood and patchouli serve to confirm the composition's status as an oriental.
Producing moderate sillage, and excellent longevity of over ten hours, Noir Épices largely comes across as the male version of Caron's Parfum Sacré (which is amusing, as Noir Épices was originally conceived for women). With the florals toned down, the spicy-citrus aspect increased and the resinous base extracted to highlight the creamy woods, the olfactory parallels between these two creations are rather evident. Naturally, one wonders if Parfum Sacré was the original source of inspiration.
Overall, Noir Épices is a bold creation. It's rich, well-constructed and exudes plenty of depth. Unfortunately, its contradictory rating is reflective of the fact that, regardless of how carefully it's stored, the juice has a tendency of losing its potency and smelling flat over a short period of time. With volatile components, such as citrus and aldehydes, this is to be expected but usually after several years of careful storage.
So, with that said, it's one creation that's greatly admired but only from afar.
