Year: 2015
Notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, orange blossom, daffodil, musks
"Marrying the freshness of cologne with the sensuality of a skin scent."
One has to make a confession about this very well-respected French niche house...
As much as one respects Frederic Malle's creations, most of them possess a laboratory coldness that's fused with a bourgeois elegance. In other words, what's often missing is a certain degree of emotional warmth. And anything potentially ardent in the compositions is either restrained or substituted with aroma chemicals, often resulting in both a detached and aloof aura.
This tends to be even more apparent when Dominique Ropion is at the helm – the master perfumer and much lauded perfectionist. But can perfection always be a good thing? Based on Ropion's idea of flawlessness, one doesn't particularly think so. With every new fragrance for this house, one feels that Ropion's compositions are becoming increasingly stilted, constrained and too precious. And the release of Cologne Indélébile only further confirms one's suspicions.
Upon smelling it, one discerns a muted citrus frenzy, with some citrus tree florals, resting on a prominent white musk base. Compared to Bigarade Concentrée, Cologne Indélébile is more tenacious but the citruses aren't as spirited. Allegedly, Ropion wanted to create a modern Eau de Cologne "free from every imperfection" but, when certain accords have significantly dulled the vibrancy of the citrus top notes...
With an overdose of neroli and orange blossom, forming the majority of the mid notes, Cologne Indélébile would appeal more to lovers of these two ingredients (albeit with a low key performance). However, when compared to other 'Eaux de Cologne' from the same house, one much prefers the more vivacious Eau de Magnolia.
One has to make a confession about this very well-respected French niche house...
As much as one respects Frederic Malle's creations, most of them possess a laboratory coldness that's fused with a bourgeois elegance. In other words, what's often missing is a certain degree of emotional warmth. And anything potentially ardent in the compositions is either restrained or substituted with aroma chemicals, often resulting in both a detached and aloof aura.
This tends to be even more apparent when Dominique Ropion is at the helm – the master perfumer and much lauded perfectionist. But can perfection always be a good thing? Based on Ropion's idea of flawlessness, one doesn't particularly think so. With every new fragrance for this house, one feels that Ropion's compositions are becoming increasingly stilted, constrained and too precious. And the release of Cologne Indélébile only further confirms one's suspicions.
Upon smelling it, one discerns a muted citrus frenzy, with some citrus tree florals, resting on a prominent white musk base. Compared to Bigarade Concentrée, Cologne Indélébile is more tenacious but the citruses aren't as spirited. Allegedly, Ropion wanted to create a modern Eau de Cologne "free from every imperfection" but, when certain accords have significantly dulled the vibrancy of the citrus top notes...
With an overdose of neroli and orange blossom, forming the majority of the mid notes, Cologne Indélébile would appeal more to lovers of these two ingredients (albeit with a low key performance). However, when compared to other 'Eaux de Cologne' from the same house, one much prefers the more vivacious Eau de Magnolia.
