Eau de Magnolia by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

*****
Year: 2014

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, magnolia, amber, patchouli, vetiver, cedar, moss
Compared to other floral offerings from this house, Eau de Magnolia is conceptually very different.

Both its name and luminous aura implies that it's a magnolia-infused Eau de Cologne. However, its main focus isn't on the floral aspect. Regardless of this, one views Eau de Magnolia as the female counterpart to Cologne Bigarade and Bigarade Concentrée.

The citrus opening is sparkling, uplifting and buoyant, and effortlessly melds with the impending magnolia. With fresh, green and fruity properties, the magnolia (also known as white champa) acts as a complementary bridge for the almost aldehydic citrus top notes and the verdant earthiness that soon follows. As it evolves, the amber accentuates the floral component, while the evident woods are mellow and well-balanced.

Overall, its performance is both smooth and sanguine, with a linear simplicity that deceptively belies the skill in its execution. Also, when compared to traditional Eaux de Cologne, it possesses much better tenacity – easily persisting for six hours. And while it might be considered less impressive than the floral releases that preceded it, it still comes across as warmer, more humane... and quite possibly suitable enough even for a maid.

Being the first Frédéric Malle fragrance by Carlos Benaim, one senses a lot of potential.


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