Year: 2011
Notes: cardamom, papyrus, violet, iris, leather, cedar, Australian sandalwood, ambroxan
After Iris 39, Musc 25 and Baie Rose 26, Frank Voelkl's latest creation for Le Labo is Santal 33. Based on the Santal 26 candle, it attempts to explore (or simply mimic) the olfactory nuances of sandalwood.
While there are parallels drawn with Diptyque's Tam Dao by some, Santal 33 is surprisingly closer to the moist fig leaf milkiness of Philosykos than Diptyque's drier and more resinous sandalwood rendition. The milky green papyrus is present in abundance, the cardamom is dusty but well-integrated, and the tender florals both temper and enhance the subdued leather accord.
Frankly, one doesn't perceive it as a sandalwood clone but more of a prudent woody-leathery composition, with a distinctive creamy greenness. Furthermore, the sandalwood isn't really given the opportunity to shine, leading one to conclude that it serves primarily as a supporting note for the papyrus than the other way round. With an ambery musk base, its performance is quite discreet and possesses reasonable longevity of around five hours, constantly reminding the wearer of its existence at regular intervals.
But for a niche house that claims to be a cut above its peers, Santal 33 still leaves one unconvinced. Even with the inclusion of the City Exclusives, one is still anticipating either a groundbreaking or far more adventurous Le Labo release.
While there are parallels drawn with Diptyque's Tam Dao by some, Santal 33 is surprisingly closer to the moist fig leaf milkiness of Philosykos than Diptyque's drier and more resinous sandalwood rendition. The milky green papyrus is present in abundance, the cardamom is dusty but well-integrated, and the tender florals both temper and enhance the subdued leather accord.
Frankly, one doesn't perceive it as a sandalwood clone but more of a prudent woody-leathery composition, with a distinctive creamy greenness. Furthermore, the sandalwood isn't really given the opportunity to shine, leading one to conclude that it serves primarily as a supporting note for the papyrus than the other way round. With an ambery musk base, its performance is quite discreet and possesses reasonable longevity of around five hours, constantly reminding the wearer of its existence at regular intervals.
But for a niche house that claims to be a cut above its peers, Santal 33 still leaves one unconvinced. Even with the inclusion of the City Exclusives, one is still anticipating either a groundbreaking or far more adventurous Le Labo release.
