Iris 39 by Le Labo

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: lime, ginger, cardamom, violet, rose, ylang-ylang, iris, patchouli, civet, musk
One has always found iris fragrances too distant and aloof to fully appreciate, and Iris 39 would make a strong contender for one of the most challenging specimens encountered so far.

Created by Frank Voelkl, its medicinal, vegetal and camphorous qualities are at odds with the spiciness of the ginger and cardamom. The iris is both powdery and creamy but remains firmly in the background, with a green violet accord taking the lead. Although the composition quickly transforms into a soapy woody skin scent, the end result is an ethereal spicy-floral that's somewhat artificial and austere in its demeanour.

Alas, as avant-garde as it tries to make itself out to be, it fails to generate even an ounce of genuine interest.


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