Year: 2006
Notes: hexyl acetate, cis-3 hexenyl acetate, damascone alpha, hedione, ethylene brassylate, ambrette seed, ambrettolide, exaltolide, muscenone
Ambrette seed is an expensive ingredient, also renowned for its aphrodisiacal properties. It possesses a gentle nutty aroma, with a fraction of that ballpoint pen odour normally encountered in liquidambar. Based on this, the price for a bottle of Ambrette 9 begins to make some sense... until one realises that the rest of the notes are a multitude of aroma chemicals.
But what about the pear or apple accord? Well, that's hexyl acetate. The sharp fruity greenness? Cis-3 hexenyl acetate. But surely there are subtle hints of jasmine and rose somewhere in the composition? Yes, of course – damascone alpha for the rose (with a rich berry or plum undertone) and hedione for the jasmine. The fact is, all the above 'accords' are mere illusions generated by an amalgamation of synthetic components.
With additional aroma chemicals, either supporting the ambrette seed or prolonging the musky drydown, one is extremely disappointed to discover just how little of it can actually be detected on the skin. What is discernible (but only just) is a clean, powdery and slightly milky musk for most of its duration.
Developed by Michel Almairac, it's a fragrance composed especially for babies but is too insipid and overpriced for what it delivers. Even baby powder is more tenacious and in possession of far greater charisma.
But what about the pear or apple accord? Well, that's hexyl acetate. The sharp fruity greenness? Cis-3 hexenyl acetate. But surely there are subtle hints of jasmine and rose somewhere in the composition? Yes, of course – damascone alpha for the rose (with a rich berry or plum undertone) and hedione for the jasmine. The fact is, all the above 'accords' are mere illusions generated by an amalgamation of synthetic components.
With additional aroma chemicals, either supporting the ambrette seed or prolonging the musky drydown, one is extremely disappointed to discover just how little of it can actually be detected on the skin. What is discernible (but only just) is a clean, powdery and slightly milky musk for most of its duration.
Developed by Michel Almairac, it's a fragrance composed especially for babies but is too insipid and overpriced for what it delivers. Even baby powder is more tenacious and in possession of far greater charisma.
