Aube Pashmina by Huitième Art Parfums

Year: 2010

Notes: rosemary, basil, tomato leaf, blackcurrant leaf, geranium, satinwood
Wanting to create a fragrance that gives "the olfactory impression of a morning walk through a well-grown herb garden", Pierre Guillaume composed Aube Pashmina. However, where one of his previous Parfumerie Générale efforts, Papyrus de Ciane, focused more on galbanum and oakmoss, Aube Pashmina incorporates notes such as herbs, tomato leaf and geranium instead, with a softer and more floral vegetal core.

With a strong tomato leaf opening, one is instantly reminded of Jacomo's Silences (albeit less aggressive, dark and complex). As this accord settles, the herbs become more identifiable (including a gentle mentholated elan from the rosemary). The geranium also lends some support, while exuding its enchanting floral qualities.

During most of its lifespan, there's also a noticeable sweetness. Now, this could be due to the blackcurrant leaf but it actually originates from the satinwood – a manipulated accord, or 'vibration', of jasmine and orange. Once all these components are in complete unison, the olfactory vision of a flourishing, serene and dewy herb garden is impressively vivid.

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, and its faltering sillage and longevity (of roughly four hours) are both very unsatisfying. Without a woody foundation of, say, oakmoss or vetiver, it lacks sufficient stamina – resulting in a bland and soapy green drydown.

It's a great pity as one much prefers Aube Pashmina over Papyrus de Ciane. Furthermore, one considers Aube Pashmina to be one of the better releases from the Huitième Art Parfums stable.