Year: 2011
Notes: Brazilian bitter orange, petitgrain, rum, Indonesian clove, ylang-ylang, Madagascan vanilla, guaiac wood, Bourbon vetiver, leather, tonka bean, amber, Tolu balsam, Indian sandalwood, musk
Comment: Vanille is part of Les Nombres d'Or Collection
Vanille is a very commendable grown-up vanilla fragrance, which attempts to distinguish itself from the plethora of vanilla scents overcrowding the market. But it doesn't quite manage to succeed.
With top notes of bitter orange and rum, the opening is enticing and not that far removed from the juicy premise of Profumum's Dulcis in Fundo. However, such a comparison is merely short-lived. After the smoky emergence of the clove, the composition reveals a heart of ylang-ylang, vanilla and Tolu balsam that's highly reminiscent of distilled vanilla absolute – rich, luscious, buttery and somewhat dry.
Although the leather and woods help to keep the sweetness to a bare minimum, it doesn't last with the gradual arrival of tonka bean and amber. But by the time some cinnamon unexpectedly accompanies the sandalwood, Vanille smells like the niche equivalent of Organza Indécence by Givenchy. While that's not necessarily a bad thing, one was expecting it to remain unique beyond the first half of its development.
Regardless of this personal disappointment, it's still one of the best niche vanilla creations to have emerged in recent years, with moderate sillage and excellent longevity.
With top notes of bitter orange and rum, the opening is enticing and not that far removed from the juicy premise of Profumum's Dulcis in Fundo. However, such a comparison is merely short-lived. After the smoky emergence of the clove, the composition reveals a heart of ylang-ylang, vanilla and Tolu balsam that's highly reminiscent of distilled vanilla absolute – rich, luscious, buttery and somewhat dry.
Although the leather and woods help to keep the sweetness to a bare minimum, it doesn't last with the gradual arrival of tonka bean and amber. But by the time some cinnamon unexpectedly accompanies the sandalwood, Vanille smells like the niche equivalent of Organza Indécence by Givenchy. While that's not necessarily a bad thing, one was expecting it to remain unique beyond the first half of its development.
Regardless of this personal disappointment, it's still one of the best niche vanilla creations to have emerged in recent years, with moderate sillage and excellent longevity.
