Year: 2010
Notes: absinthe, cardamom, cade, leather, opopanax, castoreum
Comment: Cuir is part of Les Nombres d'Or Collection
Even though Cuir is brash, tarry, smoky and a challenge to wear, one initially deems it as olfactorily closer to a smouldering campfire than the charred barbecue smokiness of, say, Tauer Perfume's Lonestar Memories.
The opening is dark, peppery and coniferous (with some sweetness from the absinthe), and persists throughout most of the composition's development. However, the prime accord isn't leather but cade – the Mediterranean equivalent of juniper (also known as prickly juniper). This perennial evergreen conifer possesses a compelling aroma and, because it shares a very similar olfactory profile, the oil is known to be often adulterated with birch, pine, tar or even petrol. Thus, this would explain why certain components present themselves to the nose when they actually aren't there.
As it evolves, the cardamom both tampers and complements the spicy undertones of the (now less aggressive) cade accord, paving the way for a moist leather note to emerge. With both a resinous and balsamic foundation, the animalic aspect is further reinforced by some castoreum – adding a subtle body odour aroma that could be offensive to some. The overall effect is a marvellous rendition of leather that's earthy, mysterious and erotic.
While one isn't a huge fan of leather fragrances, it's been an utter pleasure getting better acquainted with Cuir – so much that it's almost full bottle-worthy. However, one's main reservation is that it's currently only available in Eau de Toilette concentration. With most of this house's releases available as Eaux de Parfum, one hopes that this 'issue' is rectified very soon.
Possessing good sillage and longevity, Cuir is further proof that modern perfumery can still be uncompromising and yet equally rewarding.
The opening is dark, peppery and coniferous (with some sweetness from the absinthe), and persists throughout most of the composition's development. However, the prime accord isn't leather but cade – the Mediterranean equivalent of juniper (also known as prickly juniper). This perennial evergreen conifer possesses a compelling aroma and, because it shares a very similar olfactory profile, the oil is known to be often adulterated with birch, pine, tar or even petrol. Thus, this would explain why certain components present themselves to the nose when they actually aren't there.
As it evolves, the cardamom both tampers and complements the spicy undertones of the (now less aggressive) cade accord, paving the way for a moist leather note to emerge. With both a resinous and balsamic foundation, the animalic aspect is further reinforced by some castoreum – adding a subtle body odour aroma that could be offensive to some. The overall effect is a marvellous rendition of leather that's earthy, mysterious and erotic.
While one isn't a huge fan of leather fragrances, it's been an utter pleasure getting better acquainted with Cuir – so much that it's almost full bottle-worthy. However, one's main reservation is that it's currently only available in Eau de Toilette concentration. With most of this house's releases available as Eaux de Parfum, one hopes that this 'issue' is rectified very soon.
Possessing good sillage and longevity, Cuir is further proof that modern perfumery can still be uncompromising and yet equally rewarding.
