Year: 2010
Notes: bergamot, lemon, lavender, violet, Bulgarian rose, raspberry, tonka bean, vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris
Comment: Une Rose Vermeille is part of the Homages Collection
Une Rose Vermeille is the third Homages release, by Tauer Perfumes, and has been classified as a gourmand rose. With a sumptuous pairing of raspberry and vanilla, one was very hopeful about such an exciting olfactory prospect but, like most of Andy Tauer's recent creations, a sense of disappointment soon set in...
The opening is noticeably acidic, comprising of citrus and lavender, with a rose accord that remains defiantly in the background. Almost immediately, a sweet, voluptuous and high-pitched raspberry note emerges. However, when combined with the rose and violet, it creates a piercing iris-like aroma that's very reminiscent of Frédéric Malle's Lipstick Rose. This harsh olfactory assault is sometimes overbearing and it takes a considerable length of time before the base of vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood arrive to soften the rough edges, thus relieving one's now irritated nose.
Based on this, it's quite clear that one has certain issues with Une Rose Vermeille. Firstly, its similarities with Lipstick Rose are too close for comfort. Secondly, the astringent and attention-seeking nature of the raspberry accord jars more than it entices. And thirdly, one gets the impression that the composition is trying a little too hard to impress, resulting in a clumsy and rather vulgar performance.
Funnily enough, Une Rose Vermeille is the first Homages release that truly satisfies, both in terms of longevity and sillage (Une Rose Chyprée possessed minimal projection and Carillon pour un Ange lacked decent lasting power). Sadly, that's the best thing one can say about it. Now, that's not to say it's a terrible fragrance, as it's actually not that bad, but its fruity gourmand crudeness lets it down.
There's a world of difference between understated elegance, swathed in captivating and yet tasteful attire, and a loud-mouthed drunken floozy, wearing nothing but a mini dress and high-heels on a cold winter's night.
The opening is noticeably acidic, comprising of citrus and lavender, with a rose accord that remains defiantly in the background. Almost immediately, a sweet, voluptuous and high-pitched raspberry note emerges. However, when combined with the rose and violet, it creates a piercing iris-like aroma that's very reminiscent of Frédéric Malle's Lipstick Rose. This harsh olfactory assault is sometimes overbearing and it takes a considerable length of time before the base of vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood arrive to soften the rough edges, thus relieving one's now irritated nose.
Based on this, it's quite clear that one has certain issues with Une Rose Vermeille. Firstly, its similarities with Lipstick Rose are too close for comfort. Secondly, the astringent and attention-seeking nature of the raspberry accord jars more than it entices. And thirdly, one gets the impression that the composition is trying a little too hard to impress, resulting in a clumsy and rather vulgar performance.
Funnily enough, Une Rose Vermeille is the first Homages release that truly satisfies, both in terms of longevity and sillage (Une Rose Chyprée possessed minimal projection and Carillon pour un Ange lacked decent lasting power). Sadly, that's the best thing one can say about it. Now, that's not to say it's a terrible fragrance, as it's actually not that bad, but its fruity gourmand crudeness lets it down.
There's a world of difference between understated elegance, swathed in captivating and yet tasteful attire, and a loud-mouthed drunken floozy, wearing nothing but a mini dress and high-heels on a cold winter's night.
