French Lover / Bois d'Orage by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

*****
Year: 2007

Notes: bay rum, pimento berry, juniper berry, clove, cardamom, galbanum, angelica, Florentine iris, frankincense, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, white musk
French Lover (or, alternatively, Bois d'Orage in the US) is a masculine woody-green aromatic that's evocative of the natural aromas one often associates with the rustic dampness of a dense forest. It's earthy, vegetal, mossy and somewhat mysterious. Furthermore, it's dry, sophisticated and resolutely green, virtually coming across as the yin to Vétiver Extraordinaire's yang.

It opens with a tumultuous storm of rum, galbanum and juniper. The galbanum sets the scene, with its piercing green attributes, before spices and subtle florals emerge. With resinous frankincense and cedar mid notes, the woody aspect of the composition makes itself known as the cedar gains further prominence. As the galbanum finally loses its influence, a smooth vetiver accord arrives as a reinforcement. With a warm drydown of patchouli and oakmoss, the diminishing main notes remain detectable but are further softened by a touch of musk.

It's very interesting to note that the composition's devoid of any citrus or sweet oriental accords, such as vanilla or amber – the absence of which only further emphasises both its dark and austere nature. While the opening is strong and unrelenting, it quickly calms down considerably and remains a soft woody skin scent for most of its duration. This is a grave disappointment as the second half of its performance significantly undermines what went on before. Also, with below average longevity, it's not as long-lasting as one was expecting.

There aren't many modern (and aggressively masculine) woody-green fragrances available to choose from, and one was hoping that French Lover would help to fill the gaping void. Unfortunately, due to its lack of stamina (as well as a relative lack of distinction), one can't help feeling that it could have been a lot better.


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