Lipstick Rose by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

*****
Year: 2000

Notes: grapefruit, aldehydes, raspberry, coriander, violet, rose, marigold, iris, heliotrope, ambrette seed
Lipstick Rose's best asset is its sweet fruity opening with a joyfully effervescent raspberry accord, bolstered by some aldehydes. But within minutes, that same sparkling fruitiness graduates into something relatively dull. As the sweetness recedes, it continues to evolve but into something very one-dimensional.

A subdued iris-infused lipstick note soon increases with vigour, and what began as both sparkling and natural now smells blunt, muted and somewhat synthetic. With a fairly cold and clinical drydown, once the florals have surrendered to the ambery heliotrope drydown, one has completely lost interest in it.

Possessing good longevity, it remains close to the skin as it develops. If the composition had a few more tricks up its sleeve, along with a more natural-smelling aroma, it might have been favoured a lot more.


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