Year: 2008
Notes: bergamot, clementine, Bulgarian rose, orris, frankincense, Texan cedar, vetiver, patchouli, labdanum, myrrh, castoreum, ambergris
Comment: Incense Rosé is part of the Classics Collection
Defined as a spicy-floral, Incense Rosé lacks the depth, artistry and complexity of Andy Tauer's earlier take on the incense theme, L'Air du Désert Marocain.
Now, that's not to say one has been eagerly awaiting a L'Air du Désert Marocain II – far from it. If nothing else, the releases in-between these two creations have been both underwhelming and disappointing, but more from a compositional viewpoint than a desire for a particular former glory to be rehashed. Besides, after creating such a wonderfully unique and well-balanced fragrance, so early into his career as a perfumer, it's completely natural to have such high expectations.
Incense Rosé doesn't start off particularly promising, with high-pitched clementine and bergamot top notes. The oppressively tenacious clementine is quite muddy and dense, with an effervescent frankincense accord running throughout. Also, one is unable to clearly discern any rose throughout most of its development. Instead, a stale pot-pourri aroma (with an undercurrent of vetiver and patchouli) meets the nose.
As olfactory parallels with Yves Saint Laurent's Opium pour Homme are gradually drawn, Incense Rosé smells even more uninspiring, clunky and devoid of any finesse. But, on a more positive note, longevity and sillage are both remarkably impressive.
Comparing Incense Rosé to L'Air du Désert Marocain is like comparing the early works of a certain well-known Italian artist, during his childhood, with the Mona Lisa – the main difference here is the sensation that both the quality and artistry of Andy's work has regressed, rather than having grown from strength to strength.
Now, that's not to say one has been eagerly awaiting a L'Air du Désert Marocain II – far from it. If nothing else, the releases in-between these two creations have been both underwhelming and disappointing, but more from a compositional viewpoint than a desire for a particular former glory to be rehashed. Besides, after creating such a wonderfully unique and well-balanced fragrance, so early into his career as a perfumer, it's completely natural to have such high expectations.
Incense Rosé doesn't start off particularly promising, with high-pitched clementine and bergamot top notes. The oppressively tenacious clementine is quite muddy and dense, with an effervescent frankincense accord running throughout. Also, one is unable to clearly discern any rose throughout most of its development. Instead, a stale pot-pourri aroma (with an undercurrent of vetiver and patchouli) meets the nose.
As olfactory parallels with Yves Saint Laurent's Opium pour Homme are gradually drawn, Incense Rosé smells even more uninspiring, clunky and devoid of any finesse. But, on a more positive note, longevity and sillage are both remarkably impressive.
Comparing Incense Rosé to L'Air du Désert Marocain is like comparing the early works of a certain well-known Italian artist, during his childhood, with the Mona Lisa – the main difference here is the sensation that both the quality and artistry of Andy's work has regressed, rather than having grown from strength to strength.
