Dovana by Sylvaine Delacourte

*****
Year: 2016

Notes: mandarin, neroli, Bulgarian rose, Tuscan iris, heliotrope, vanilla, sandalwood, ambrette seed, white musk
"... the colour white describes it well, white being a symbol of purity and freshness."

     ~ Sylvaine Delacourte

And so another perfume industry insider jumps onto the niche bandwagon and launches their own line of niche fragrances. This time, it's the former creative director of Guerlain, Sylvaine Delacourte, which surely must be a daunting prospect after working for such an illustrious classic house.

Sylvaine's new collection comprises of five unisex scents, with white musk being the common theme. Working with the "crème de la crème of French industry", all five creations present different portraits of white musk, with each one based on a specific colour and personal recollection. With an understated elegance, they all strive to caress the wearer, instead of "striking you like a blow".

Dovana is a soft olfactory depiction of the colour white, and was inspired by the aroma of Sylvaine's childhood soap. With orangey nuances and a wispy floral nucleus, the composition rests on a light foundation of vanilla, sandalwood and musk. The ambrette seed ensures that its general aroma isn't clinically clean but, ultimately, it's an inoffensive floral-oriental musk that's understated yet not too sweet.

Although it smells balanced and well-composed, it's olfactorily closer to the colour cream than white. However, strictly within the context of a white musk offering, it's an undeniably pleasant experience. Exuding fruity-floral traces, during the drydown, its evolution is virtually seamless with any metallic aroma chemical tinges kept to a bare minimum.

Remaining close to the skin, with excellent lasting power, it's also very reasonably priced.


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