Lampblack by Bruno Fazzolari

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: grapefruit, orange, black pepper, inky notes, vetiver, nagarmotha, benzoin
"Lampblack is named for the pigment in India ink, formerly made from the soot of oil-burning lamps."

     ~ Bruno Fazzolari

Lampblack is a woody-citrus, which takes its influences from numerous vetiver fragrances.

Using Montale's citric-green Red Vetyver as a loose foundation, and incorporating the ink accord from Lalique's Encre Noire along with the smoky rubberiness from Comme des Garçons' Vettiveru, would be the best way to describe Lampblack. There's also an austere, almost dusty, undertone that's vaguely similar to the demeanour of Guerlain's Djedi, but to imply that these two are somehow similar would be quite a stretch.

The citrus opening is crisp and invigorating, similar to Parfums de Nicolaï's L'Eau de Sport / Balle de Match but much richer. And although the grapefruit plays a supporting role, it can be easily noticed throughout the woody (yet synthetic) drydown. Accompanying the peppery-citrus top notes, one can also discern some lychee. With regards to the vetiver, which is possibly of the Haitian variety, it's grassy-green and slightly creamy.

But the star note is actually the nagarmotha, with the vetiver being third on the bill. As the composition evolves, the vetiver takes a backseat, as the nagarmotha increases its influence. The smoky aspect of the nagarmotha is more rubbery, with a suggestive synthetic tar-like underscore, and any inky nuances are accentuated by the lingering sour grapefruit. As the vetiver gradually fades, what's left are high-pitched rubber and citrus murmurs, with just a hint of benzoin.

With a luminous beginning and a murky ending, Lampblack is a very interesting creation. While it's not entirely original, it still manages to successfully recycle old olfactory ideas in a skilful manner. With good lasting power and moderate sillage, one would have preferred the drydown to smell less synthetic and two-dimensional. As a result, one could imagine becoming bored of wearing it after a while.

But, all things considered, Lampblack marks a creative peak for Bruno Fazzolari and is worth investigating.


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