Jimmy by Bruno Fazzolari

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: spices, violet leaf, geranium, rose otto, ylang-ylang, heliotrope, moss, sandalwood, ambergris
Inspired by the work of the New York School poet, James Schuyler, Jimmy is quite a strange one.

Allegedly about violets, one detects a spicy green apple accord in the opening. Initially, it's slightly grating but, when the florals and ambergris intervene, the composition greatly improves, with the greenness becoming more akin to the aroma of freshly cut grass.

As it further evolves, a balmy green floral sweetness is acknowledged. The sweetness itself exhibits succulent peachy undertones and the florals are immaculately incorporated. As a result, one is mentally transported to a lavish summer garden, where every olfactory aspect of nature is discerned – foliage, bark, grass, petals... even pollen. And even though heliotrope is listed, any powderiness is virtually negligible.

While not exactly the same, the olfactory vibe is vaguely reminiscent of some of the late Edmond Roudnitska's work, particularly Christian Dior's Diorella and Frédéric Malle's Le Parfum de Thérèse (i.e. peach and honeydew nuances against a floral-green canvas). As for the drydown, it emits a tender and fascinating grapefruit-infused woodiness, which lingers for several hours.

With bellowing top notes, it later turns soapy but in a very good way – harbouring a romantic green floralcy. As for longevity, it's rather good but could have been better. If it wasn't for the screechy (and somewhat synthetic) introduction, one would have probably awarded it an extra star.


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