Oud Assam by Rania J.

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, bitter orange, orange, black pepper, Indian oud, cedar, frankincense, vetiver, tonka bean, musk
Taking into account that most of the offerings by Rania J. include an oud accord, it seemed perfectly logical to release an oud-centric fragrance. However, Oud Assam fails to differ much from its oud-infused siblings.

Supposingly consisting of Indian oud, one doesn't detect any barnyard or faecal properties normally associated with this variety of oud oil. Instead, one's nose is subjected to a prickly oud note. Yes, there's also some black pepper present, but that irritable sensation seems to stem more from the result of a chemical onslaught.

After a few minutes, the oud (and that prickly sensation) subside to allow the rest of the woods through. With a mild smoky facet, the composition is more about woods and frankincense than oud, with the cedar and vetiver being the main players. Its overall performance is also similar to that of Lavande 44 – a fleeting blast of the star note, before quickly drying down to an unsatisfyingly feeble murmur.

With a gentle serving of tonka bean in the base, one can also discern something similar to civet residing in the background – possibly to fool the wearer that, when coupled with the cedar and vetiver, their nose is equating it to Indian oud. While it's a clever little trick, one isn't fooled that easily.

With hardly any of this house's efforts lasting beyond the five hour mark, Oud Assam is no exception. However, its main problem is that it's not a legitimate oud fragrance, regardless of whether or not the oud used is natural. And when compared to Ajmal's Al Shams Special Edition, which successfully reproduces the smell of genuine Indian oud oil, Oud Assam simply pales by comparison.


Share