Hatria by Angela Ciampagna

*****
Year: 2015

Notes: clove, saffron, davana, rose, jasmine, patchouli, caramel, labdane, nagarmotha, oud, guaiac wood, gurjum balsam, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Hatria is part of the Hatria Collection
Angela Ciampagna is a new Italian niche house, which composes 'artisanal' fragrances from a small family-run workshop, in central Italy. Steeped in rural tradition and paganism, with a gothic aesthetic, this house alludes to all that is both sacred and profound. However, with all the praise being lauded on these creations, one has to admit feeling very indifferent towards them.

One's main problem with these offerings is that many of them are very derivative, with their olfactory influences so obvious to those with sufficient exposure to niche perfumery. And while some are just plain awful, others are structurally weak. With regards to Hatria, it's just another case of excessive hyperbole and little substance.

Essentially, it's a rehashed rendition of saffron, rose, patchouli and oud that goes down the gourmand route. Its overall aroma is redolent of the gourmand ouds of Montale, but is actually closer in spirit to something from the ultra-exclusive niche house Sospiro (with Duetto immediately springing to mind).

Sweetened further with some caramel, there isn't much to make it truly stand out from an already oversaturated gourmand oud market. Coming to a close with a slightly powdery sandalwood, gurjum balsam and white musk drydown, there are similar alternatives out there that are far better.

Projection is moderate, with lasting power of around six hours.


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