Augusto by Mazzolari

*****
Year: 2014

Notes: bergamot, orange, mint, lavender, geranium, rosewood, vetiver, sandalwood, ambergris
Augusto is "a tribute to the patron Augusto Mazzolari, who led the company's fortunes for many years".

It's a woody-aromatic, which is devoid of any tonka bean and oakmoss to be considered a true fougère. With a healthy serving of lavender, the mint and citrus accords are noticeably apologetic in the opening. And when the woods reveal themselves, it quickly becomes apparent just how vacant the composition is.

Those very chords, which are crucial to fougères, could have done wonders but, once the lavender dissipates, it transforms into a muddled and slightly sweet woody affair for quite a while. With an old-school sandalwood and ambergris drydown providing a small reprieve, the pseudo-fougère base indicates what could have been, if more thought had been put into its structure.

Remaining close to the skin, with good persistence, Mazzolari is now just another niche house that appears to be churning out too many new fragrances (2014 has seen five new releases, from this house, so far).

An extra star awarded for the somewhat nostalgic drydown alone.


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