Silver Iris by Atelier Cologne

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: Italian tangerine, blackcurrant from Burgundy, Chinese pink pepper, violet leaf from Grasse, mimosa from Grasse, iris pallida from Tuscany, Indonesian patchouli, Brazilian tonka bean, white amber

Comment: Silver Iris is part of the Collection Métal
Although Silver Iris opens with a subdued metallic iris note, the name is still very misleading.

The composition is virtually smothered by a syrupy barrage of blackcurrant, violet leaf and amber. The iris never truly comes to the fore, and nor does its elegantly glacial and earthy properties, which one would have naturally expected. Instead, it focuses more on the candied violet aspect, featuring a slightly peppery powderiness.

After several moments, the tooth-aching sweetness slowly recedes, eventually allowing the patchouli to provide some much needed earthiness. But, even by this stage, an acute berry and violet sugariness still persists, with noticeably synthetic undertones. It's only during the soapy drydown, hours later, when the roaring sweetness is well and truly tamed.

With good projection and tenacity, it's nothing more than a dense and powdery fruity-floral. Obviously, for lovers of iris fragrances, one wouldn't recommend it.


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