Heliotrope by Olivier Durbano

*****
Year: 2012

Notes: red mandarin, elemi, olibanum, red pepper, ginger, saffron, angelica, magnolia, heliotrope, myrrh, benzoin, nagarmotha, cedar, sandalwood, ambergris, musk
According to Walter Schumann's 'Gemstones of the World', there are close to 200 different varieties of natural gemstones in existence.

With the release of Citrine, one presumed that the Bijoux de Pierres Poèmes series had come to an end. After all, the collection was always meant to have consisted of seven fragrances, based on various gemstones. With regards to Heliotrope, the goalposts have now been moved. So much for art over commerce...

This creation isn't named after the flower but is inspired by the heliotrope stone, also known as the bloodstone. And just like the colour of the juice, the spicy resinous opening is vermilion, fiery, raspy and flamboyant. Sadly, it rapidly evolves into something mundane, slightly gaudy and is unsatisfyingly wispy on the skin.

Although heliotrope is listed, it's not as gourmand as originally expected and slots in very comfortably with this house's olfactory style. It's resinous, warm, red berry-like but, at the same time, rather inoffensive. Once again, Olivier Durbano disappoints with this olfactory effort but, then again, one wasn't really expecting much.


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