Aldehyde 44 by Le Labo

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: aldehydes, neroli, daffodil, jasmine sambac, tuberose, vanilla, woods, ambrettolide, musk

Comment: Aldehyde 44 is the City Exclusive for Dallas

Finally, Le Labo releases a fragrance that complements its name!

Aspiring to the classic Chanel perfumes, No.5 and No.22, Aldehyde 44 is a modern aldehydic floral that steers clear of the cool, sharp and aloof sophistication of the sources of perfumer Yann Vasnier's inspiration. Instead, it's a warmer and more inviting rendition, with some light florals set against vanilla, woods and musks.

The citrus-infused aldehydes sparkle and glisten but the above parallels gradually dissipate as the composition further develops, with its oriental base becoming ever more apparent. Although it continues to glow and radiate on the skin, it never descends into an austere powdery abyss – revealing a gentle honeyed sweetness, like the warm golden rays of sun.

It's relatively easy to wear, with its benzoin-esque base drawing the occasional comparison to Serge Lutens' La Myrrhe. However, although Aldehyde 44 is no less refined than its old-school aldehydic peers, its lasting power could have been so much better. Furthermore, its aldehydic strength fails to persevere throughout its lifespan – leaving behind only demure traces of amber, woods and musk much too soon.

Seeing as it's twice the price of a Le Labo offering from the standard line, one expected far more substance. As it stands, it's both a sensual and ethereal aldehydic interpretation that sadly falls short of the mark.


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