Nejma One by Nejma

*****
Year: 2007

Notes: green mandarin, saffron, cumin, nutmeg, cinnamon, orange blossom, tobacco, oud, Bourbon vetiver, vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, white musk
Nejma One begins with an extremely brief citrus opening, before the oud, spices (most noticeably saffron) and florals rush over to gleefully introduce themselves. Within seconds, an olfactory association with Knize's Knize Ten springs to mind – a sub-conscious connection, further heightened by both the sweet and subtle presence of a petroleum or rubbery note.

Although no iris is listed, one can distinctly smell an accord similar to it (possibly due to the emerging sweet tobacco intermingled with spices of nutmeg and cinnamon). The end result is one of a sweetened floral-leather, with the oud now relegated to the background. While hardly animalic, there's also a suggestive chemical tinge about the composition that's neither too unbecoming nor intrusive.

Although a supporting vetiver accord is detectable, the sandalwood and vanilla are significantly less discernible during the drydown. With longevity of at least six hours, and relatively gentle sillage, Nejma One is pretty much a smoother, and more timeless, rendition of Knize Ten.

Although not completely original, it's still a highly respectable creation – best suited for those who found Knize Ten too old-fashioned or even harsh. However, should the above description of this spicy-woody creation sound disappointing, Montale's Oud Cuir d'Arabie would better cater those seeking a more archetypal oud and leather experience from the Middle East.

With that said, Nejma One is Nejma's best creation to date.


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