Jade by Olivier Durbano

*****
Year: 2008

Notes: mint, green tea, Chinese cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, jasmine, iris, amber, immortelle, patchouli, vetiver, yerba mate, moss, musk
For a green scent, Jade is a very strange creation indeed and almost beyond conventional classification, as its composition isn't strictly of the herbaceous or aromatic variety.

Instead, its opening is dense, slightly mentholated and musky, smelling similar to a handful of glistening green jellybeans – sweet, slightly acidic and somewhat spicy. The combination of green tea, mint and various spices evoke a vague Far Eastern theme, which recalls Amouage's Epic Woman and its equally unique use of a green tea accord. However, Jade is less resinous and sophisticated, as well as being significantly sweeter.

Although the florals remain discreetly in the background, the jasmine is occasionally detectable. The infiltration of the woody notes prevent it from becoming too sickly sweet, while the maté provides a level of continuance to its spicy celadon-esque aroma. Even though no frankincense is listed, there's definitely a perceptible trace (but only just).

Jade is a fragrance that's very tough to pin down but, while it's both unique and intriguing, is still very wearable. However, one wonders if the end-result could have been a lot better if the sweetness was tempered further, by a greater presence of the resinous qualities (from the array of green and woody notes) the composition has to offer. Still, it's certainly one of the better offerings from this house.


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