Patchouli Leaves by Montale

*****
Year: unknown

Notes: patchouli, oak, Tibetan rock rose, amber, vanilla, white musk
Patchouli Leaves starts out with a eucalyptus-fuelled blast, in a manner reminiscent of Lorenzo Villoresi's Piper Nigrum, before subsiding to reveal the patchouli's typical earthy, woody and mellow attributes. With lush, warm and sweet accords of vanilla, rock rose and amber, the composition is both dark and heady (further heightened by a subtle chocolate note, which emerges from the shadows at irregular intervals).

Sadly, the drydown possesses a far greater presence of both amber and rock rose than actual patchouli – so much that there are moments when striking comparisons are unavoidably drawn to both Serge Lutens' Ambre Sultan and Tauer Perfumes' L'Air du Désert Marocain. This could be due to the seamless blending making the accords so difficult to prise apart. However, one isn't entirely convinced.

With excellent longevity and sillage, it fails to adequately deliver and also lacks sufficient complexity. While it's highly recommended for amber lovers, those expecting more patchouli should probably look elsewhere.


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