Chypré Vanillé by Montale

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: frankincense, iris, Tibetan rock rose, amber, tonka bean, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood
What sounded like a very interesting concept turned out to be quite a disappointment. Chypré Vanillé's opening showcases the vanilla and some green notes (possibly cistus) that's initially brash and discordant, with a harsh crispness that's rather compelling. Both the vanilla and amber are extremely dry (due to the resinous nature of the frankincense), lacking in the sweetness one would normally expect, but the prominent powdery properties of the vanilla remain very much intact.

However, during the mid notes, the composition inexplicably falls apart, producing a very undesirable and crude aroma. After at least an hour of tolerating the pungent smell of rotting vanilla, the arrival of both the tonka bean and sandalwood come to the rescue, transforming it into something more palatable. Thankfully, it remains that way and lingers for several hours.

Had it not been for the highly unpleasant mid notes, it might have been awarded an extra star.


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