Year: 2016
Notes: coriander, cumin, patchouli, resins, cedar, ambergris
Described as a metamorphosis of L'Air du Désert Marocain, but in parfum extrait concentration, Au Coeur du Désert hones in on the drydown of L'Air du Désert Marocain – accentuating "the sublime elegance and natural beauty of warm woody amber notes". More refined than its predecessor, and based on a revised formula, Andy doesn't consider Au Coeur du Désert to be a flanker but more of a creation in its own right.
Originally, the news came as a great surprise because, up until recently, Andy had always been very adamant that he wouldn't release a 'sequel' to L'Air du Désert Marocain. As for his real motivations behind launching Au Coeur du Désert, one can speculate until the cows come home. But, then again, this isn't the first niche house to do a complete u-turn and it certainly won't be the last.
As for Au Coeur du Désert, it's essentially a creamier, denser and smoother outing – exhibiting a silky ambery demeanour, as opposed to the resinous smokiness of L'Air du Désert Marocain. Significantly scaled back are the citruses and spices, with the woods (particularly the cedar) ramped up a couple of notches. As a result, Au Coeur du Désert isn't as dry as L'Air du Désert Marocain but airier, slightly sweeter and more compact. But the main downside of Au Coeur du Désert is that it possesses a hefty serving of ambroxan, which rather hampers one's enjoyment of its near linear progression.
Performance-wise, the difference in longevity between the two is practically negligible, with Au Coeur du Désert providing reduced sillage and largely remaining close to the skin. As a result, one feels that owning both would be pointless, unless layering is deemed an affordable option. But, for those who found L'Air du Désert Marocain too spicy, masculine or even boisterous, Au Coeur du Désert would be worth looking into.
Personally, one finds L'Air du Désert Marocain far more rewarding to wear. Furthermore, one is unable to justify paying over 40% more for an extrait that isn't superior, in every way, to the Eau de Toilette Intense version. But, if nothing else, Au Coeur du Désert is still better than Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's similarly revamped Ambre Précieux Ultime.
Overall, Au Coeur du Désert is a respectable reworking of Andy's bestseller, but better performance and a less synthetic woody-amber base would have resulted in a higher rating.
Originally, the news came as a great surprise because, up until recently, Andy had always been very adamant that he wouldn't release a 'sequel' to L'Air du Désert Marocain. As for his real motivations behind launching Au Coeur du Désert, one can speculate until the cows come home. But, then again, this isn't the first niche house to do a complete u-turn and it certainly won't be the last.
As for Au Coeur du Désert, it's essentially a creamier, denser and smoother outing – exhibiting a silky ambery demeanour, as opposed to the resinous smokiness of L'Air du Désert Marocain. Significantly scaled back are the citruses and spices, with the woods (particularly the cedar) ramped up a couple of notches. As a result, Au Coeur du Désert isn't as dry as L'Air du Désert Marocain but airier, slightly sweeter and more compact. But the main downside of Au Coeur du Désert is that it possesses a hefty serving of ambroxan, which rather hampers one's enjoyment of its near linear progression.
Performance-wise, the difference in longevity between the two is practically negligible, with Au Coeur du Désert providing reduced sillage and largely remaining close to the skin. As a result, one feels that owning both would be pointless, unless layering is deemed an affordable option. But, for those who found L'Air du Désert Marocain too spicy, masculine or even boisterous, Au Coeur du Désert would be worth looking into.
Personally, one finds L'Air du Désert Marocain far more rewarding to wear. Furthermore, one is unable to justify paying over 40% more for an extrait that isn't superior, in every way, to the Eau de Toilette Intense version. But, if nothing else, Au Coeur du Désert is still better than Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's similarly revamped Ambre Précieux Ultime.
Overall, Au Coeur du Désert is a respectable reworking of Andy's bestseller, but better performance and a less synthetic woody-amber base would have resulted in a higher rating.
