Iskander by Parfum d'Empire

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: grapefruit, citron, mandarin, coriander, tarragon, neroli, orange blossom, amber, cedar, oakmoss, ambergris, musk
"Like the conqueror whose name it bears – Iskander is the Persian translation of Alexander..."

Classified as a hesperidic chypré, the citrus-herbaceous opening is crisp, zesty and wonderful, underpinned by a demure array of peppery spices. However, after several minutes, it significantly reduces the volume and turns into a faint woody-musk affair (with salty and citric traces). And while both the cedar and oakmoss are vaguely discernible, one also detects a synthetic ambroxan-type ambery-woodiness that one can do well without.

Largely staying close to the skin, with below average longevity, it's both clean and elegant... but monumentally dull (especially once the citrus notes have subsided). If the base was less artificial and more substantial, one's impression of it would have been very different.


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