Incarnata by Anatole Lebreton

*****
Year: 2015

Notes: raspberry, violet, rose, rhododendron, iris, lipstick, suede, myrrh, amber, benzoin, vanilla
Developed as an ode to lipstick and femminity, Incarnata attempts to venture where Frédéric Malle's synthetic-smelling Lipstick Rose failed, while striving not to make the same mistakes.

Personally, one believes Incarnata to be stylistically closer to Hilde Soliani Profumi's Vecchi Rossetti, with the same aldehyde waxiness but less powdery. Being slightly denser than Hilde Soliani Profumi's superb creation, Incarnata is yet another violet-rose infused iris offering that's well-executed. Exuding some raspberry, a touch of leather and a richer oriental base, it also alludes to the late-drydown of Parfum d'Empire's Cuir Ottoman, while still retaining that cosmetic waxiness.

With barely any sweetness, it's a very good effort that would have fared better with greater tenacity and a little more originality. Still, it comes warmly recommended.


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