Five by Bruno Fazzolari

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, lemon, red mandarin, petitgrain, rosemary, minerals, neroli, sweet woods
"Five is the first perfume I developed in parallel with a group of paintings."

     ~ Bruno Fazzolari

Bruno Fazzolari is a San Francisco based artist, who fuses painting with perfume to explore "the phenomenon of synaesthesia". Five is a modern take on the traditional citrus-aromatic Eau de Cologne, within the context of an Eau de Parfum. But, where the herbaceous aspects are usually prominent, here it's streamlined.

The citrus opening is effervescent and sprightly, with a fleeting peppery note. However, due to this stage's lack of clarity and its general powdery nature, one surmises that either some lemongrass or litsea cubeba has also been included. As already mentioned, the rosemary is rather demure, as a result of scaling back on the herbs. However, the neroli exudes a warm comforting sweetness, which greatly enhances the proceedings.

With mineral accords listed, there's a somewhat metallic sea water nuance amongst the mélange of citrus and florals. The end result is evocative and yet subtle – bequeathing a fresh, airy and pelagic dimension. And while one isn't a fan of aquatics, the overall effect is very different from the nasty aroma chemicals such as calone.

After sampling this house's other fragrances, it becomes clear that Bruno has a knack for creating tantalisingly sweet citrus-woody base notes. In the case of Five, the base features an array of sweet ambery woods, which may include some moss. And although the drydown is soapy, there's still a citric buoyancy clearly evident.

Overall, it's an impressive release that's clean, brisk and a pleasure to wear from start to finish. It also persists on the skin for several hours.


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