Year: 2015
Notes: Florida pink pomelo, Calabrian mandarin, Chinese mint, blackcurrant bud from Burgundy, Moroccan orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, iris from Tuscany, amber, Haitian vetiver
Comment: Pomélo Paradis is part of the Collection Originale
Pomélo Paradis is undoubtedly one of Atelier Cologne's finest offerings to date. As a rendition of the exuberant zestiness of the grapefruit-like pomelo, it's in the same league as Orange Sanguine and Cédrat Enivrant.
The top notes are extremely realistic – with a citrus astringency, typically associated with grapefruit, enhanced by a juicy combination of mandarin and blackcurrant. The opening faithfully reproduces the olfactory sensation of tearing into a ripe pomelo, which harbours an invigorating tartness within its succulent pulp. But what makes this composition so successful is how it also manages to completely avoid the body odour pitfall, which many grapefruit-based fragrances have fallen prey to.
As it develops, the floral aspect never intrudes and the amber is never too sweet. And while the vetiver provides a light woody backdrop, one can also identify a suggestive civet-like infusion in the base, which provides a very sensual nuance – so much one that finds the drydown just as captivating as its citreous introduction. During the late-drydown, remnants of citrus still remain but it's now woodier, with the animal musk aspect being a little more discernible.
What one especially loves about Pomélo Paradis is that, from beginning to end, it's full of interesting twists and turns. It's also a beguiling effort that restores some faith in this niche house. Now, if only most of this house's other releases were just as good...
Projection is moderate but its staying power is above average for what it is.
The top notes are extremely realistic – with a citrus astringency, typically associated with grapefruit, enhanced by a juicy combination of mandarin and blackcurrant. The opening faithfully reproduces the olfactory sensation of tearing into a ripe pomelo, which harbours an invigorating tartness within its succulent pulp. But what makes this composition so successful is how it also manages to completely avoid the body odour pitfall, which many grapefruit-based fragrances have fallen prey to.
As it develops, the floral aspect never intrudes and the amber is never too sweet. And while the vetiver provides a light woody backdrop, one can also identify a suggestive civet-like infusion in the base, which provides a very sensual nuance – so much one that finds the drydown just as captivating as its citreous introduction. During the late-drydown, remnants of citrus still remain but it's now woodier, with the animal musk aspect being a little more discernible.
What one especially loves about Pomélo Paradis is that, from beginning to end, it's full of interesting twists and turns. It's also a beguiling effort that restores some faith in this niche house. Now, if only most of this house's other releases were just as good...
Projection is moderate but its staying power is above average for what it is.
