Myrrh Casati by Mona di Orio

*****
Year: 2014

Notes: Peruvian red berry, pink pepper, Guatemalan cardamom, liquorice, saffron, Somali myrrh, Somali frankincense, Siam benzoin, Indonesian patchouli, cypriol, guaiac wood

Comment: Myrrh Casati is part of the Monogram Collection
Myrrh Casati is the first fragrance from the new Monogram Collection, which showcases exclusive creations by other perfumers. Composed by Melanie Leroux, it's inspired by Marchesa Casati, "the legendary patron of the arts and muse of eccentricity". However, if this is the best that Jeroen Oude Sogtoen can muster, the future of this house looks extremely bleak.

With the most noticeable accords being myrrh, cardamom, saffron, liquorice and benzoin, it's a soft and spicy oriental. But it's also anaemic and exceedingly dull, with poor sillage and below average staying power. With a distinct soapy demeanour, it's also quite sweet. Personally, one would have preferred something richer, darker and with some edge.

Even though one wasn't a great fan of the Signature Collection, by comparison, Myrrh Casati comes across as both uninspired and very pedestrian. With none of the subsequent releases, after Mona's untimely death, being particularly noteworthy, one may be forced to completely write-off this niche house.


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