Chambre Noire by Olfactive Studio

*****
Year: 2011

Notes: pink pepper, prune, violet, jasmine, frankincense, papyrus, leather, patchouli, vanilla, sandalwood, musk
While many of the fragrances from this house have been complete duds, Chambre Noire is an improvement but it's still far from original.

As a woody-oriental, it consists of a succulent leathery prune accord, adorned with complementary florals, and a dusty combination of frankincense, pepper and spices. The violet is short-lived but manages to leave a lasting impression, while the jasmine lightens the tone to create a plummy sweetness. As it develops, some patchouli emerges in abundance. Possessing a vanilla, sandalwood and musk base, some edge is lost towards the end but traces of its core DNA still remain.

However, what prevents Chambre Noire from being awarded a higher rating is due to the fact that it's merely an amalgamation of various other woody-incense releases. Combine Serge Lutens' Serge Noir with Helmut Lang's Cuiron, while adding a largely synthetic sandalwood and white musk base, and that's basically Chambre Noire. But then again, maybe Shiseido's Féminité du Bois, and not the photo, was the real source of inspiration.

With good staying power and moderate projection, it's an elegant addition to Olfactive Studio's oeuvre but some originality is still in desperate need.


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