Year: 2013
Notes: bitter orange, bitter chocolate, vanilla, tropical woods
While Montale can be accused of shamelessly regurgitating their oud line, Profumum could also be accused of doing the same with their gourmand vanillas.
Dulcis in Fundo, Acqua e Zucchero, Vanitas, Battito d'Ali, Dolce Acqua... and now Sorriso. That makes a total of six gourmand vanillas in this Italian house's range. Personally, after releasing Battito d'Ali, Profumum should have taken a long break from this olfactory theme.
As for Sorriso, it certainly isn't a chocolate-infused version of Dulcis in Fundo, as there's virtually no evidence of any citrus. Instead, it's simply an inferior reworking of Battito d'Ali. With a gentle and restrained demeanour, the translucent accords initially create a fudge-like aroma. However, it soon transforms into more of a marshmallow vanilla, with dusty chocolate nuances, and stays that way. And while it's reasonably tenacious, it still lacks the potency of earlier Profumums.
There was once a time when Profumum offered some diversity. Nowadays, it's more concerned with translucent woody borefests, the odd disappointing floral scent and lacklustre reiterations of vanilla. Moreover, it's been over five years since anything particularly noteworthy has come out.
So, is Profumum really resting on its laurels? Based on Sorriso, it very much seems to be the case.
Dulcis in Fundo, Acqua e Zucchero, Vanitas, Battito d'Ali, Dolce Acqua... and now Sorriso. That makes a total of six gourmand vanillas in this Italian house's range. Personally, after releasing Battito d'Ali, Profumum should have taken a long break from this olfactory theme.
As for Sorriso, it certainly isn't a chocolate-infused version of Dulcis in Fundo, as there's virtually no evidence of any citrus. Instead, it's simply an inferior reworking of Battito d'Ali. With a gentle and restrained demeanour, the translucent accords initially create a fudge-like aroma. However, it soon transforms into more of a marshmallow vanilla, with dusty chocolate nuances, and stays that way. And while it's reasonably tenacious, it still lacks the potency of earlier Profumums.
There was once a time when Profumum offered some diversity. Nowadays, it's more concerned with translucent woody borefests, the odd disappointing floral scent and lacklustre reiterations of vanilla. Moreover, it's been over five years since anything particularly noteworthy has come out.
So, is Profumum really resting on its laurels? Based on Sorriso, it very much seems to be the case.
