Violette Fumée by Mona di Orio

Year: 2013

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, saffron, Mediterranean Lavender, oakmoss from the Balkans, clary sage, Egyptian violet leaf, Egyptian violet, Turkish rose, tobacco, Haitian vetiver, guaiac wood, opopanax, Somali myrrh, cashmeran

Comment: Violette Fumée is part of Les Nombres d'Or Collection
Violette Fumée was originally composed for Mona di Orio's business partner, Jeroen Oude Sogtoen. However, since her death, he has decided to share this creation with the general public.

Its concept as a smoky violet is rather unique and, in the opening, a tobacco-infused aromatic smokiness can be instantly detected. Earnest verdant accords intermingle with the lavender, and the violet itself is discernible but remains gentle throughout. As the smokiness subsides, a demure rose and vetiver pairing gradually fleshes out the proceedings. With light woods, resins and musk, the grand finale is sweet, powdery and tender.

Overall, it's an elegant masculine rendition of violet, which is also a significant improvement on this house's last couple of releases. However, there's something plastic-like or even synthetic about the first-half of its evolution, with a noticeable waxiness at the beginning. Also, its presence is soft and remains a skin scent for most of its duration. But, regardless of such flaws, one can't deny that it's a respectable effort.

While its projection could have been more pronounced, it still possesses longevity of at least eight hours.