Burlesque by Maria Candida Gentile

Year: 2012

Notes: orange sanguinella, iris pallida, Damascus rose, frankincense, patchouli, balsams

Comment: Burlesque is part of the Exclusive Collection

Starting with a sweet, succulent and buoyant coupling of iris and orange sanguinella (a bitter orange related to the blood orange variety), the iris pallida (found in either rocky or mountainous regions in the Mediterranean) is powdery, yet finer than other iris accords previously encountered. With a flirtatious performance from the rose, the combination of these components smell like an alluringly sweet and expensive floral body powder.

As a noticeable orange rind note re-emerges throughout its evolution, a light and ethereal frankincense nuance creeps in – adding an extra dimensional layer to the tenderly sweet interplay. However, for a brief moment, the proceedings become more airy and wispy – leaving one concerned about such a beautiful aroma coming to an abrupt end. But this is only a transitional phase, as the composition evolves into an enchanting smoky aroma, like high-quality incense sticks imbued with natural oils.

Whatever evidence there is of any patchouli, it's one of resolute composure. And with the unhurried emergence of various balsams, the end result is a creamy, lush and extremely divine drydown, with remnants of the earlier notes still very evident. As time passes, the creaminess becomes warmer and more buttery, with a spicy facet not previously detected.

In essence, Burlesque is a soft, warm and intoxicating floral-oriental, which should please fans of both Exultat and Sideris to a certain degree. While it's discreetly sweet and serene, it's playful and yet sophisticated at the same time, whilst never pandering to the pubescent charms of its contemporaries.

With very good longevity, it's one of the better parfum extraits from the Exclusive Collection.