White by Undergreen

*****
Year: 2011

Notes: aldehydes, white mint, coconut, African orange blossom, ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, orris, styrax, amyris

Comment: Eau de Parfum review
Proclaiming a manifesto that promises 100% natural fragrances, Patrice Cardenoso and Jérôme Bonnet's new niche brand, Undergreen, still has a rather long way to go in order to convince. Although Black and White (both composed by perfumer Fabrice Olivieri) are classified as unisex, each one heavily relies on incorporating a set of notes that are stereotypically associated with one gender or the other.

As for White, it's an insipid, chalky and high-pitched floral, with poorly integrated aldehydes, orris and coconut, set alongside pleasant creamy traces of white florals. Even with an open-mind, the accords are quintessentially feminine. But the overall impression, especially with regards to its styrax-laden drydown, is one of the lingering odour of floral hair conditioner in a mildew-infested bathroom.

With atrocious staying power, one hopes never to smell this clinical floral disaster again.


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