Angéliques sous la Pluie by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

*****
Year: 2000

Notes: coriander, pink pepper, juniper berry, angelica root, cedar, musk
Jean-Claude Elléna's creations, for Frédéric Malle, have noticeably been a very intriguing mixed bag (especially when one considers their prices). With regards to Angéliques sous la Pluie, one is left torn between lukewarm indifference and glowing admiration.

Upon application, one is met with an extremely stark pepper and juniper berry opening (infused with a reserved herbaceous leaning), which strongly recalls the aroma of French Lover / Bois d'Orage. In fact, if one didn't have sufficient patience, Angéliques sous la Pluie would have simply been dismissed as its extremely watered-down predecessor. However, a very significant olfactory divergence soon takes place, coercing one to reconsider any conclusions prematurely reached by this point.

Any harshness quickly subsides, disclosing a fresh and elegant aura, before a soft, sweet and slightly powdery angelica emerges. Supported by some light cedar and musk, as well as subtle remnants of juniper and pepper, the angelica is both delicate and creamy – emitting its green facets in a delightfully sophisticated manner.

As the name implies, Angéliques sous la Pluie is indeed an accurate representation of angelicas after the rain, with Jean-Claude Elléna's haiku-esque olfactory style perfectly complementing the fragility of this flower against the elements. Its longevity is rather good (around four hours) although the same can't be said for its low sillage. Thus, a heavy application might be required but one strongly feels that this may prove to be both expensive and somewhat futile.

Performing like an extravagant Eau de Cologne, one is unexpectedly in awe of its artistic gravitas but not for its failure to satisfy from a practical viewpoint. Based on this, it's very difficult to heartily recommend.


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