Soir de Lune by Sisley

Year: 2006

Notes: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, coriander, Capsicum pepper, nutmeg, centifolia rose, lily of the valley, mimosa, iris, jasmine, peach, honey, Indonesian patchouli, tree moss, sandalwood, musk
Compared to the first two fragrance releases from this house, Soir de Lune is rather disappointing. That's not necessarily because it comes across as less unisex than either Eau de Campagne or Eau du Soir, but mainly due to its lack of individuality.

While Eau de Campagne and Eau du Soir are directly related by their bracing citrus-green qualities, they still remain distinctive in their own right. With Soir de Lune, this isn't the case and it's very evident that it's acquired some of Eau du Soir's DNA in the process. Yes, the juniper accord is sorely absent but, although Soir de Lune differs by being smoother, sweeter and richer, one strongly senses that Sisley's classic 1990 release has been used as the primary foundation for its genetic makeup.

It's still a modern chypré (and smells no less elegant or glamorous) but is more floral and spicy, with a honey-drenched fruity touch. A dusty rose is the most prominent floral accord, while its development is subtle and yet deceptively linear. With a woody-musk base, its honeyed sweetness continues to persevere, with an unusually creamy nuance, right up until the very end.

Even though Soir de Lune possesses some appeal, it still pales in comparison to Eau du Soir. One could view it as a complementary alternative to Eau du Soir's freshness, especially during the colder months, but to do so would simply be an attempt to excuse away its relative lack of identity. Suffice it to say, it's nothing more than an opaque variation of the sub-translucency of Sisley's previous release but it isn't as compelling.

With gentle sillage and very good longevity, it's not the powerhouse that one has been led to believe. However, based on all of this, one sincerely hopes that Sisley's next major release not only remains truer to the house's aesthetics but is also as idiosyncratic as its predecessors.