Soavissima by Profumum

*****
Year: 1996

Notes: white flowers, iris, heliotrope, amber
Sometimes referred to as one of Profumum's amber creations, Soavissima is actually more of a heliotrope affair with just a touch of amber. While not terribly complex, it's a gentle powdery composition with a slightly creamy sweetness. With an aroma that's very reminiscent of baby powder, there's also something decidedly nostalgic and maternal about its comforting aura (regardless of its sensual undertones).

Verging very close to loukhoum territory, there's a subdued plastic note that threatens to throw the proceedings into complete disarray. Largely stemming from the heliotrope, it's redolent of scented plastic dolls or figurines. Although not off-putting, such an olfactory association is complementary to the very aura previously mentioned. Fortunately, it doesn't exasperate to the point where the quality is either cheapened or compromised, with the heliotrope eventually opening up to reveal its enchanting nuances.

With exceptional lasting power and discreet projection, it's still a very hard sell for what it is (and its expensive retail price really doesn't help matters). But when compared to the alternatives, only Montale's Powder Flowers comes close to being a true contender. Hence, if either baby powder or heliotrope interests you, Soavissima is definitely worth looking into for something discreet, sweet and yet dangerously seductive.


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