Cadavre Exquis by Bruno Fazzolari & Antonio Gardoni

Year: 2016

Notes: camphor, blood orange, dried fruits, star anise, cypress, marigold, ylang-ylang, benzoin, vanilla, chocolate, civet

Comment: Cadavre Exquis is a limited edition release
Cadavre Exquis is a collaboration between Bruno Fazzolari and Bogue Profumo's Antonio Gardoni, inspired by a surrealist parlour game from the 1920s. During the game, the players take turns adding words or images to a composition (or, in this case, accords), completely unaware of what the other participants have added until the very end. With the pre-agreed olfactory theme being a gourmand, like the game, the final result for Antonio and Bruno was unpredictable and surprising.

The opening is both dusty and camphorous, with a prominent coupling of chocolate and patchouli waiting in the wings. One also discerns star anise, which heightens the dark cacao effect. With suggestive fruity flourishes of a dried or stewed nature, the composition gradually becomes less gritty and noticeably warmer, courtesy of the discreet serving of vanilla, benzoin and florals. But it's the undercurrent of civet that really grabs one's attention – accentuating a caramelised floral sweetness, while providing a sultry, animalic edge to the proceedings.

Resting on what appears to be a subdued foundation of sweet woods, it's a very successful excursion from two perfumers who previously hadn't ventured into gourmand territory. However, based on the finished product, one feels that Antonio's olfactory style shines through more than Bruno's. In addition, both projection and tenacity could have been more substantial.

Nevertheless, what saves the day is the positively unorthodox approach and a generous serving of civet. But it's good to know that genuine creativity, in niche perfumery, is still alive and well.