Rouge Assasin by Jovoy

Year: 2012

Notes: bergamot, elemi, rose, iris, solar accord, rice, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, Virginian cedar, sandalwood, ambrette seed, white musk
Composed by Amélie Bourgeois, Rouge Assasin is a light woody iris offering.

Its general demeanour is dusty, soapy and restrained, set against a faint woody-musk backdrop. As for the iris, it's more of the refined or glacial variety, with the vanilla accentuating its buttery attributes. And while the iris is somewhat sharp, one personally wouldn't describe it as vegetal or rooty. With leathery facets, the composition isn't at all dense, thus allowing other accords (such as the rose) to filter through intermittently.

Unfortunately, one is unable to get over the fact that it's too delicate and apathetic on the skin, during its entire duration. Furthermore, the eventual drydown is a derivative cocktail of woods, vanilla and musks. Needlessly to say, its lasting power is closer to ephemeral than respectable.