L'Art de la Guerre by Jovoy

Year: 2014

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, rhubarb, Granny Smith apple, nutmeg, violet leaf, Maillette lavender, grey cistus, Indonesia patchouli, immortelle, leather, oakmoss, Australian sandalwood
Based on the fougères and woody masculines of the past, L'Art de la Guerre takes its inspiration from vintage designer releases, such as Givenchy's Xeryus Rouge and Jacques Bogart's Furyo.

The best part about the composition is the opening – a multi-faceted fruity tartness of citrus, rhubarb and apple interwoven with some spices. The top notes lures the wearer in with its sweet olfactory shades of red and pink, before intermingling with emerging tones of brown, green and grey. The violet leaf largely provides those green hues, while the lavender bequeaths an ashy grey dustiness.

But it's the rest of the remaining notes that contribute earthy brown hues to the rest of its development. Resting on a bed of patchouli, leather, immortelle and oakmoss, some cistus adds a seductive ambery leatheriness to the proceedings. As for the sandalwood, it's less obvious but still perceptible during the late-drydown. One can also discern occasional hints of booze, oak, hay and tobacco throughout the ambery brown haze.

By and large, it's an impressive throwback to the mossy masculine offerings of yesteryear. However, something about it leaves one cold. Maybe because it's stylistically not to one's tastes – a sweet woody-aromatic with out of place fruity tones. And while it's not something that one would actually wear, there are sure to be those who will find it alluring, complex and satisfying.

Sillage is moderate, with average staying power.