Ambre Premier by Jovoy

Year: 2011

Notes: candied orange, rose, patchouli, amber, vanilla
Developed by Michelle Saramito, Ambre Premier is a rendition of amber that one is still uncertain about.

Dwelling on the negatives first, it initially smells excruciatingly synthetic to one's nose – so much that not even the spicy orange top notes can detract from. Its artificial nature comes off as crude, hollow and cheap, with an underlining sweet powderiness. Supported by a dark yet warm dark rose core, the patchouli emits a chocolate-flavoured wafer aroma. But it serves to complement the composition's sweetness more than the rose.

As for the amber, it's evident from the outset and steadily increases its intensity over time. However, it takes a few more hours before Ambre Premier manages to redeem itself. And, when it does, one is somewhat puzzled that it's actually the same fragrance.

It's only during the drydown when everything finally comes together. The ingredients are more unified, any rough edges are smoothed over and the composite ambery aroma smells more natural. With the late emergence of the vanilla, the whole affair is also creamier and more convincing, with remnants of rose and spices still evident. As for its general performance, sillage is sufficient but its longevity is absolutely stellar – easily surpassing the 12 hour mark.

So, after a rocky start, things do improve considerably. But one isn't sure if its final stage is really worth waiting for, especially when there are better amber alternatives available. Still, if nothing else, it's very tenacious.