Oeillet Bengale by Aedes de Venustas

*****
Year: 2014

Notes: bergamot, white pepper, black pepper, cinnamon, frankincense, cardamom, turmeric, clove, saffron, China rose, ylang-ylang, vanilla, benzoin, labdanum, Tolu balsam
"A rose that wants to be a carnation, set ablaze by an exotic spice explosion."

Based on the listed accords, as well as Aedes de Venustas' previous two releases, it's become very clear that, like Amouage's golden era, frankincense is integral to this house's olfactory identity.

With Oeillet Bengale harbouring the French name for 'carnation', it actually refers to a variety of China rose (or Rosa Indica Caryophyllea), bred by the late floral painter and botanist Pierre Joseph Redouté. But, interestingly enough, the aroma of Aedes de Venustas' third fragrance is inspired more by the name and appearance of this genus of rose than its actual scent.

Conceived by Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Oeillet Bengale is a spicy floral-oriental, which smells like a more feminine version of Amouage's Jubilation XXV. With a fruity-floral core, this aspect is sandwiched between a rich array of exotic spices and a creamy oriental foundation. As for the frankincense, it's delicate and wispy throughout the composition's lifespan.

Unfortunately, the drydown is too dull and tellingly synthetic. That's a shame as, with admirable projection and lasting power, Oeillet Bengale is probably Aedes de Venustas' most potent offering to date. However, this could possibly be due to the generous serving of ambroxan in the base.


Share